2026-09-21
On September 16, 2026, Through·Yue: Witnessing Chinese Fashion — A Retrospective of Lü Yue's Art and Pedagogy opened as scheduled at CAFA Art Museum. Centered on the fashion exploration journey of Lü Yue, Professor at the Central Academy of Fine Arts and founder of its Fashion Design program, the exhibition adopts her personal practice as a perspective. Through multi-dimensional presentations including artworks, manuscripts, videos and archival documents, it traces the development of the Fashion Program at the School of Design, Central Academy of Fine Arts, reviews nearly half a century of transformations in Chinese fashion, and envisions the future landscape of Chinese fashion. Hosted by the Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA) and China National Silk Museum, the exhibition is organized by the School of Design and CAFA Art Museum. It receives support from the China Fashion Designers Association, the Fashion Art Committee of China Artists Association, the Fashion Art Specialized Committee of China Textile Engineering Society, and the China Garment Culture Research Association.Speech by Lin Mao, President of the Central Academy of Fine ArtsLin Mao, President of the Central Academy of Fine Arts, stated in his speech that fashion is among humanity’s creations closest to daily life. More than mere daily necessities, garments serve as carriers for intellectual expression. The aesthetic tastes, lifestyles and even social ideologies of an era are often uniquely manifested in people’s clothing. He remarked that Professor Lü Yue stands as an important witness and practitioner in the evolution of Chinese fashion. From her studies at the CAFA Affiliated High School, to her participation in establishing CAFA’s Fashion Design program, and her long-term commitment to design education, her personal trajectory has been intertwined with many pivotal stages of Chinese fashion development. The Central Academy of Fine Arts has always focused on the relationship between art, design and social life. Design is never merely about resolving issues of function and form; it is also concerned with human life, social progress and cultural expression. He expressed his hope that through this exhibition, visitors may witness the transformations of an era, trace the explorations and accumulations of Chinese fashion and design over time, and understand the reflections and practices of successive generations of artists, designers and educators advancing Chinese design.Speech by Ji Xiaofen, Director of China National Silk MuseumJi Xiaofen, Director of China National Silk Museum, noted in her speech that the museum has long been committed to the collection, research and exhibition of silk culture, textiles and costumes. As a key founder of fashion design education in China and an active promoter of fashion art, Professor Lü Yue’s artistic practice shares deep roots with silk culture and traditional crafts. Hosted at CAFA Art Museum, this exhibition marks another important initiative of museum-academia collaboration to advance research on fashion culture and design education.Speech by Liu Yuanfeng, Former Chair of the Department of Textile and Fashion Art Design, Central Academy of Arts and Crafts, and Former President of Beijing Institute of Fashion TechnologyLiu Yuanfeng, Former Chair of the Department of Textile and Fashion Art Design, Central Academy of Arts and Crafts, and Former President of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, recalled the teacher-student bond he shares with Lü Yue in his address. He recounted that when Lü Yue was studying at the CAFA Affiliated High School, she possessed solid painting skills yet lacked the ability to draw fashion renderings. She therefore went to the Central Academy of Arts and Crafts on her own to seek mentorship, and was referred to him by someone at that time. Later, Lü Yue was formally admitted to the Fashion Design program of the Central Academy of Arts and Crafts, with Liu serving as her homeroom teacher. When he subsequently became Chair of the Department of Textile and Fashion Art Design, Lü Yue continued to study and grow within the program, and eventually stayed on as a faculty member after graduation, turning their teacher-student relationship into that of colleagues. Liu remarked that it is often hard to foresee how far a student will go at the very beginning. Lü Yue’s creative journey transcends the scope of an individual designer’s growth; it is closely intertwined with the developmental trajectory of fashion design and design education in China. In his view, the core value of this exhibition lies in helping future researchers sort out the evolutionary context of Chinese fashion design up to the present day, carrying profound social significance.Speech by Wang Ziyuan, Professor and Secretary of the Party General Branch, School of Design, Central Academy of Fine ArtsWang Ziyuan, Professor and Secretary of the Party General Branch of the School of Design, Central Academy of Fine Arts, stated in his speech that Professor Lü Yue was a founder and academic leader of CAFA’s Fashion Design program. She introduced the concept of “Fashion Art” into China’s fashion design teaching and communication system. Compared with well-established fashion programs at peer art academies across the country, the once fledgling Fashion Design program at CAFA quickly forged its distinctive identity with avant‑garde and artistic characteristics, which it has retained to this day. This exhibition is not merely a retrospective of an outstanding designer’s professional career. Archives are not an endpoint of the past; instead, they can serve as a starting point for us to rethink questions in the present. Today, artificial intelligence, digital media, new materials and virtual spaces are entering the practice of fashion design. Yet the more rapidly technology advances, the more we need to ponder the fundamental questions of design: what do we wish to express through design, and how can we maintain the forward‑looking vision of the discipline? Professor Lü Yue’s successful experiences showcased in the exhibition offer us many inspiring insights.Speech by Lü Yue, Artist and Professor at the Central Academy of Fine ArtsIn her closing remarks, Lü Yue, Artist and Professor at the Central Academy of Fine Arts, extended her sincere gratitude to the co-hosts, curatorial team and all guests present at the event. She noted that as a documentary record embodying her lived experience, this exhibition not only sorts out and presents the intertwined trajectory of her personal creation and the evolution of the times. It demonstrates the complete journey of a creator gradually building a system of self-expression while absorbing relevant global knowledge. More importantly, it invites viewers to conduct in-depth retrospection and reflection on the historical context of Chinese fashion. She emphasized that garments possess both practical everyday functions and the capacity to carry cultural ideas. She hopes this collective memory shared by practitioners in the field can offer lasting inspiration and impetus for the future development of design education and creative practices.Vice Director of CAFA Art Museum, Gao Gao, presided over the eventGroup Photo of GuestsOn-site VisitOn the opening day, the exhibition curatorial team and guests from peer academies, research institutions and other organizations held an academic symposium themed Experiencing Chinese Fashion: Personal Experience and Narrative of the Times. Starting from Lü Yue’s creative practice and teaching career, participating scholars discussed topics including how personal experience can be translated into the narrative of the times, how fashion art engages with design education, and how Chinese fashion can forge cultural subjectivity within a global context. Extending the academic framework of the exhibition, the symposium also offered diverse perspectives for the historical documentation and contemporary practice of Chinese fashion design.Scene of Academic SymposiumTitled Through·Yue, the exhibition carries profound and far-reaching implications. “Through/Wear” refers to the essence of apparel and the cornerstone of design; “Yue/Traverse”, by contrast, signifies crossing the river of time toward a vision of the future. With this title, the exhibition looks back on extraordinary years in the evolution of design, sorts out the origins of Chinese fashion and design education. Taking history as its starting point, rooted in present-day development and looking ahead to future prospects, it seeks the development path for Chinese design in the new era amid the exploration of inheritance and innovation. Breaking the conventional framework of a solo artist exhibition, the exhibition takes Professor Lü Yue’s personal experience, creative achievements and teaching practice as observational samples, extending to a broader social and industrial context, and reflecting the overall transformations of China’s society, economy, public aesthetics, textile industry and art education over nearly half a century. Arranged chronologically, the exhibition is divided into four sections: Memories of Youth, Witness of the Times, Academic Reflections, and Dialogue with the Era. It comprehensively covers multiple dimensions: fashion and art, design and manufacturing, brands and enterprises, communication and market, as well as culture and education. The exhibits include physical garments, original design manuscripts, industrial video archives, traditional pattern-making techniques, mixed-media fashion installations and digital interactive experiences. The exhibition delineates how epochal changes have reshaped the fashion industry and public aesthetics from top to bottom, and demonstrates how Chinese designers, grounded in local culture, promote exchanges and mutual learning between Chinese and foreign civilizations through creative works from bottom to top.Lü Yue, Fashion Work New Interpretation of Ink Art, 2004Lü Yue, Fashion Work Twin Wings, 2017Lü Yue, Madame Butterfly, 2016–2024Lü Yue, Work Women’s Needlework, OngoingArtist BiographyLyu YueLü Yue is Professor, Designer, Curator and Artist. She is the founder of the Fashion Design concentration at the Central Academy of Fine Arts, and a doctoral and postdoctoral supervisor. As a key practitioner in the development of Chinese fashion design and fashion art, she has long been active in the fields of design education, fashion branding and artistic creation. Lü Yue’s practice spans fashion design, design education and contemporary art. Since 2007, she has continuously curated and promoted the staging and exchange of international fashion art exhibitions in China, gradually extending her practice to contemporary art curation and collaborating with art museums and institutions at home and abroad. Her artistic creations are primarily installations. Focusing on the relationship between the spiritual essence of Eastern culture and contemporary artistic language, she often engages in dialogue through Yin-Yang philosophy, Eastern imagery and global cultures. Her representative works include Twin Wings, Madame Butterfly and Cloud Garments. She has received numerous honors, including China Golden Award Designer, China Top Ten Fashion Designer, China Apparel Color Award, Outstanding Person Award, and the Sino-British Cultural Exchange Award for Contributions to Art Education. She has authored and edited more than ten textbooks and publications such as Fashion Art · Design, Fashion Design · Brand, and Graceful Cloud Garments. She has served repeatedly as a judge for international fashion competitions, the National Art Exhibition of China and China International Fashion Week, taking part in fashion art exchanges and professional collaborations both domestically and internationally. Nearly half a century of Lü Yue’s practice constitutes not only the personal trajectory of an artist, designer and educator, but also an important practical document for observing the evolution of Chinese fashion design, design education and fashion culture.Through·Yue: Witnessing Chinese Fashion — A Retrospective of Lü Yue's Art and PedagogyDates: September 17 – October 7, 2026 Venue: Gallery B, 3rd Floor, CAFA Art MuseumOrganizers: Central Academy of Fine Arts, China National Silk Museum Co-organizers: School of Design, Central Academy of Fine Arts; CAFA Art Museum Supporters: China Fashion Designers Association; Fashion Art Committee of China Artists Association; Fashion Art Committee of China Textile Engineering Society; China Garment Culture Research AssociationChief Curators: Xu Yang, Lin Mao Academic Advisors: Li Dangqi, Xu Ping, Keum Ki-sook (Republic of Korea) Academic Hosts: Lü Pinjing, Yu Yang, Ji Xiaofen Curators: Wang Ziyuan, Zhou Bo, Gao Gao Exhibition Directors: Jin Jun, Han Wenchao, Zheng Jiali
Artist: Lü Yue Exhibition Coordination: Hai Jun, Li Yaochen, Chen Baichao Visual Design: Liu Zhizhi, Ji Ziyi, Zhang Zuheng Exhibition Design: Wang Donglin Curatorial Execution: Huang Siyun, Wang Donglin, Wang Xinyuan, Gao Na, Chen Yijun Curatorial Team: Xie Mengdi, Yu Yimeng, Luo Jie, Pan Lu, Wang Zhihui, Tong Jiyang, Guo Wu, Xiong Yi, Sun Wenjing, Wu Yating, Wang Meng, Hu Yuqi, Chen Shuo Video Team: Yuan Junjie, Zhang Jinming
Exhibition Liaison: Li Jie Exhibition Management: Jing Peng, Su Shicun, Chen Xiaohua, Lü Zhifa, Guo Xu Media & Communications: He Yisha, Wu Jing, He Yifei, Du Yinzhu, Guo Hongmei, Min Zhiyi Public Education: Xiao Baozhen, Geng Jinghua, Wang Jun, Yao Yiqun, Liang Wen, Cai Meng Development & Promotion: Sun Wei, Yi Yi, Wang Jing, Jin Jianru, Kou Lei Finance: Yang Liu, Men Jing Administrative Support: Yue Junyao, Liu Xingling, Zhang Qian, Jiang SiyuSpecial Thanks: Style3D (Zhejiang) Technology Co., Ltd.; Jiangsu Shangjiukai Silk Co., Ltd.; Junkeyuan Brand (Beijing Linding Intelligent Connection Technology Co., Ltd.)Editor-in-Chief: He Yisha Responsible Editor: Du Yinzhu On-site Photographs: He Yifei
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